Touring Mexico’s Best Zoos:

by Allen Nyhuis

If our book continues to do well, Jon and I hope to write an updated version in a few years. In talking about improvements we can make, and one thought is that we could turn it into “North America’s Best Zoos”. This led me to go see the leading zoos of Mexico, where neither of us had ever toured a zoo before. Using frequent flier miles, I flew to Mexico City in mid-March (2009). After clearing customs, a taxi took me downtown to Chapultepec Park and its famous zoo. Because I was arriving in the late afternoon (and they close at 4:30), it took me two separate visits to thoroughly tour this massive zoo.

Chapultepec Zoo (Mexico City)

While admission was free, there is a rather strict security check at the entrance. Once inside, a long open court offers various kiosks, each with snacks and services. There’s also a small (open on weekends) education building with animal artifacts to see and touch. At the end of the long corridor, there are more security guards, who don’t allow visitors to go back to the entrance! Just beyond is a central food court, with choices that include Chinese, tacos, pizza, ice cream, and McDonalds. In three directions are the entrances to the zoo’s major animal sections. 

For the most part, animals are organized according to their native biomes.Two of these biomes, Desert and Pastures, are linked by a long loop which starts across from the food court. I immediately saw an attractive open rocky habitat for desert bighorn sheep, across from a long well-planted yard for Mexican wolves, feature animals in Mexican zoos. Up the path are similar desert habitats for peccaries, hyenas, Hamadryas baboons, and others. Beyond a pair of side-by-side yards for both camel species is the Herpetario. This small reptile house is advertised all over the zoo, probably because of its small entrance fee (about $2). The building’s exterior is interesting, decorated to replicate the nearby ancient city of Teotihuacan (a place I went to in a few days). Inside, the medium-sized reptile terrariums were nice but ordinary, with highlights including a big anaconda and many venomous snakes. Back outside, the loop became the “Pastures” biome, emphasizing African savanna animals. Along the path, I noted the excellent signs for each animal, all only in Spanish. Large, bare yards held African wild dogs, lions, zebras, and white rhinos. Behind a watering hole is a 6-species savanna yard with giraffes, wildebeest, and more zebras. A short loop through thick fan palms gives 3 views of the hippos’ deep pool. The rest of the loop’s habitats are elevated, with at least 6 antelope species, plus Tibetan yaks, mouflon sheep, and American bison. Mixed species yards represent South America (with guanacos) and Australia (with 4 kangaroo family varieties). The loop ends at the centrally-located Asian elephant exhibit, which is large enough, but rather bare.

Back at the central food court, in the opposite direction is another long loop, leading first to the Tropical Forest biome. It begins with the Insectario, another indoor exhibit with an entrance fee. Inside is a steamy jungle, filled with big beautiful butterflies. Behind the building is a small gallery with small insect exhibits, many with tarantulas. A left turn leads into an immersive set of South American rain forest habitats. To the right is a netted enclosure of small animals and birds from the continent, while jaguars and ocelots are sometimes seen through glass, though late afternoon glare can be a problem. The path enters a thicker tropical forest, with the boardwalk winding and rising to give effective treetop-level views of 4 entertaining monkey species, plus binturongs and coatis. Spectacled bears and Bengal tigers (including a white tiger) have large valley habitats, while the Patas monkeys, leopards, Sumatran tigers, and siamangs were all difficult to find. The extensive great apes area has indoor-outdoor views of chimpanzees and orangutans, but their outdoor yards were so dense that I couldn’t find them. The gorillas have an impressively large and natural yard, but they were also out of sight. In between were mandrills and a few small monkey exhibits.

The Temperate Forest biome begins with the Zoo’s largest exhibit, for its famous pair of giant pandas. The exhibit is very popular, with crowds surrounding the glass walls of the outdoor yards. I could only see the pandas from a distance, as they were at the back of their yards. Nearby is a small moated red panda habitat, followed by Japanese macaques. At least 4 deer species are on this path, including a large herd of Sika deer and elk, who share their yard with “exotic” Canadian geese. The rocky grizzly bear habitat is attractive, with a stream flowing through it. Other notables here include black bears, pumas, wolves, raccoons, and nutrias. The most memorable (for me) exhibit was marked “Teporingo” – for volcano rabbits. It’s always a thrill to see a species for the very first time, and these small bunnies are seen through glass in their dusty “volcanic” habitat.

Just beyond the food court is a large C-shaped exhibit building, with above and underwater viewing of Humboldt penguins, California sea lions, and polar bears. The views are effective, if not attractive. On the path to the Zoo’s exit is a large yard with dark grey “Canis familiaris” dogs, labeled as “Xoloitzcuintli”. I looked this long name up later to learn these are rare Mexican hairless dogs, the sacred dogs of ancient Mexico.

Perhaps the most attractive exhibit area is the Aviario, with more than a dozen tall flight cages. Golden eagles are honored here as they are Mexico’s national bird. Along with many hawks, eagles, owls, and falcons, the highlight was a pair of California condors. I was thrilled to see one of these rare raptors within a few feet of me. A set of 5 walk-in domed aviaries are filled with parrots, toucans, and other tropical birds. The famous Montezuma Aviary is a larger dome, where I nearly touched an African crowed crane, then had a sulfur-crested cockatoo perch on me, trying to bite off my buttons. Flamingos, swans, and other wading birds are in pools between the aviaries.

Guadalajara Zoo (Guadalajara, Jalisco)

On the far north side of Mexico’s second-largest city, there is a festive feeling entering this unique zoo. Unlike Chapultepec, admission is not free. I paid just under $9 (US) for the all-inclusive ticket, covering all special exhibits and a couple rides. Despite the fee, the zoo is popular. It was a warm Friday, with many schoolchildren there in large groups.

Just inside the entrance, the Zoo spreads out in the valley below. Going down the hill, a row of fountains is lined on both sides by pastel-blue chimpanzee statues (created by a famous local sculptor). At the bottom is an attractive geyser fountain behind a large flock of flamingos. To the right a long exhibit path begins passing a wide variety of animals, leading to the back of the Zoo. First is a nice tropical swamp habitat with Nile crocodiles. Next are open multi-species exhibits behind a watering hole, one for South America (rheas and llamas), while another has similar African species (ostriches and antelope). Deer, coyotes, and hyenas are also seen in paddocks. Down on the inside of the path are very steep rocky habitats for aodads and other mountain creatures. 

This zoo’s Herpetario was the best I saw on the trip. Its indoor jungle has a bridge crossing a stream with rare Morelet’s crocodiles below and green iguanas all over. A long carpeted gallery displays many different snakes, lizards, and more. Outside is a row of old-fashioned round aviaries holding various hawks, owls, parrots, and other large birds. Though the exhibits weren’t impressive, the collection was! At the far end of the Zoo is a scenic picnic spot near a “train” station and a small restaurant. Here I saw one of the most amazing views I’ve ever seen in any zoo – the panoramic, beautiful Huentitan Gorge. I’ve seen national park canyons in the USA that are not as gorgeous as this one was!

Heading back towards the Zoo entrance, I wound back and forth on two paths, passing most of the largest animals and big cats. In ordinary, adequate open yards, I saw giraffes, African elephants, white rhinos, and more deer. A sunken grassy grotto held a pair of lazy cougars, who looked a bit hot in the sun. In side-by-side moated yards are beautiful white lions and white Bengal tigers.

Just uphill is a pair of tall netted pyramids, the Aviarios, walk-through aviaries filled with palms and other tropical foliage. Inside I walked short jungle paths, surrounded by tropical birds, many from Mexico. I had heard, on the internet, I would see free-ranging squirrel monkeys here, but there were no monkeys. Next is the looping Selva Tropical (“Rain Forest”) path, with a variety of animals. Seen from glass-fronted viewing caves were orangutans, chimpanzees, a jaguar, and an active Baird’s tapir with a nice pool.

Continuing towards the front, elevated yards display elk and American bison, while a growing pack of Mexican wolves lives in a fenced hillside thicket. Black bears are in a sloping grassy grotto, across from polar bears in their bare-looking concrete home with a deep refreshing pool and underwater viewing. Nearby is a large, natural hilly habitat for gorillas, who are seen from three attractive viewing areas, including an elevated African hut. The hippos (with a baby) are usually in their two pools. Some of the rarest animals are in some of the most unattractive exhibits, with tayras, jaguarundis, ocelots, and Patas monkeys side-by-side in old-fashioned cages. At least 5 more monkey species are seen in equally unattractive cages. In contrast, spider monkeys occupy a nice tropical island.

The Zoo has two exhibits for children, including the larger Rancho Veterinario – an open ranch with horses, cows, goats, and more – all available for petting through white farmyard fencing. Encouraging them to be “Vets for a Day”, kids can watch animals being cared for here. Not far away, the modern CIA (Central de Investigación Animal) building has a swaying rope bridge at its entrance. Inside, an impressive collection of high-tech and fun educational exhibits challenge children to “investigate” the world of animals using giant animal models, computer terminals, colorful graphics, and more. 

Clearly the zoo’s main feature is Masai Mara, a surprisingly realistic re-creation of a piece of Africa in central Mexico. A small African-themed village has restrooms and a gift shop decorated in pretty Masai designs. The gift shop offers many imported-from-Africa souvenirs. Outside, a large group of schoolchildren lined up with me for the Masai Mara tour. We boarded a large fat-tired bus, a safari vehicle similar to those used by Disney in its excellent Kilimanjaro Safaris attraction. In fact, I found this ride to be a similar, but low-budget, version of Kilimanjaro. As we boarded, our friendly guide gave us a handful of chopped carrots to feed the giraffes on the tour. At the beginning, the tour was very bumpy, traveling on a rough gravel road. Inside the large open fenced field, the savanna is filled with a variety of antelope, zebras, and many ostriches – who surrounded our vehicle. At one end of the trail, the bus stopped to feed the giraffes. The Mexican children squealed with delight, as a half dozen giraffes leaned into our vehicle to be fed the carrots in our hands. As the bus wound back and forth, it crossed a stream, circled a pond, and passed wildebeest, flamingos, white rhinos, Cape buffalo, and a round secluded cheetah habitat. During our 20-minute tour, the young male guide stood up front, explaining in Spanish all about the animals, often making the children laugh.

The Zoo’s newest exhibits are on a long sliver of land connected to the rest of the zoo and next to the Selva Magica amusement park. It’s quite a walk from the hippos to the new Aquario. This modern aquarium, with 95 species of fish and other aquatic animals, is entered through a long dark cave, with waterfalls on the walls. Inside, the many attractive aquariums (including tall cylinder tanks) display South American fish, colorful African cichlids, and long toothy Mexican gars. One of the building’s highlights is a glass tunnel, where natural sunlight streams down on the rainbow of coral reef fish. Next is a room-size gallery with an entire glass wall looking into a large ocean tank. There were internet rumors that they have (or had) a great white shark here. I didn’t see one, but there were many large sharks and rays swimming about, as well as bonnethead sharks. In another long row of exhibits were lionfish, large blue lobsters, piranhas and other Amazon species, and a tropics room with spotted freshwater rays.

Behind the Aquario is Villa Australiana. I didn’t think an extra fee is justified for this walk-through kangaroo yard. Visitors walk on a path with low fences, while the red kangaroos and wallabies hop in a sandy yard on both sides. I was most thrilled to see a large joey in its mother’s pouch. A couple of indoor exhibits have lorries and cockatoos behind glass and a walk-through aviary is filled with chirping parakeets. An attractive spider monkey island is between the kangaroos and aquarium.

I finished my day with a ride on the zoo’s train, actually a tram made to look like a train. It provides a narrated tour of the entire zoo in about 20 minutes. One thing I didn’t get to do was take in their twice-daily animal shows in the Auditorio, an impressive stadium with room for 3,000. Its shows feature parrots, free-flying raptors, and reptiles.

San Juan de Aragón Zoo (Mexico City)

On my return from the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan, I squeezed in a short visit to this less famous zoo on Mexico City’s northeast side. I had read online the neighborhood near this zoo is not safe, so I was nervous. But at a nearby subway station, a friendly young Mexican doctor assured me that a taxi to the zoo would be safe, so I went.

This zoo has the same management as Chapultepec, and their excellent Spanish animal signs are virtually identical. This Zoo is divided into four areas: the Mexican, American, and African Regions; and the Old Zoo. Each region has a central Plaza, with restaurants and restrooms in themed buildings (i.e. the Plaza Americana is in giant tee pees). Sadly, I totally missed the American Region. Its only animal exhibits were a pair of nice-looking (on the map) sea lion pools. In my hurry, I simply didn’t see these exhibits on the map. I’m quite frustrated that I missed a chance to see South American sea lions!

What I did see began with the pretty Mexican Region. An isolated exhibit of Mexican wolves is typical of the area’s attractive native species habitats. All are natural, with rockwork and lots of desert cacti in the background. Prairie dogs, coatis, raccoons, peccaries, coyotes, desert bighorn sheep, and pronghorns live in these attractive exhibits. The rest of this Region (which I toured later) is behind the pronghorns, in the center of the Zoo. Across from Plaza Mexicana is one of the Zoo’s newer and better exhibits, “Sendero del Jaguar” (Path of the Jaguar). Inside a large domed net aviary is a dense jungle with parrots, toucans, and other tropical birds to see. A low aquarium features Mexico’s famous “pejelagartos” (large gars). At the entrance and exit are views through glass of jaguars and crocodiles. Just outside is an intriguing spider monkey exhibit. These crowd-pleasing monkeys swing on a pole directly over the visitor path to an open pole on the other side. Nearly invisible electrified wires keep them from climbing down to join their human admirers. Other species nearby include red brocket deer, Mexican agoutis, weasel-like grisons, and the largest ocelot exhibit I’ve ever seen. A real surprise was the Path of the Golden Eagle, where 7 types of eagles, hawks, and owls are seen in small, open habitats. Their wings must be clipped, to keep them from flying away.

The African Region is the Zoo’s largest, and best. White rhinos and elephants stroll in decent-sized open paddocks, with a nice pool for the elephants. Around the corner is a glass-fronted chimpanzee yard, with many rocks and trees to climb. I was surprised to see their huge lion exhibit. The (above) Mexican doctor told me the lion exhibit was awful. Instead, it was possibly the largest lion exhibit I’ve ever seen (in fact, the large pride of lions was a bit too far away). Next was the open “Sabana Africana” with giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, antelope, and 4 types of land birds. Across the path was a hippo pool, with underwater viewing (though not much of a view due to its filthy water).

Likely to keep us from including this zoo in our next book are the old exhibits in the outdated “Zoológico Antiguo” (Old Zoo). The four fenced yards weren’t bad, with bison, elk, Barbary sheep, and Indian antelope. I hated, however, seeing hippos in an all-concrete exhibit (except for a pool). A trio of old grottoes host more lions, jaguars, and spectacled bears. In a small circular exhibit, wedged concrete grottoes display interesting small mammals, including raccoons, African porcupines, grey foxes, and oncillas (or little spotted cats). A not-so-attractive glassed-in jungle has birds, reptiles, and a few mammals. More spider monkeys, in a decent habitat, were followed by some terrible old monkey cages, with baboons, Patas monkeys, and squirrel monkeys. On the path to the front of the Zoo, there is a very large modern playground and a 3-D simulator ride.

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